Let's be real - when it comes to skincare, retinol is kind of a big deal. It's touted as a skincare superhero, able to tackle everything from persistent breakouts and fine lines to dark spots and dullness. But what exactly is this ingredient, and how does it work its magic?
In short, retinol is a derivative of vitamin A that can do some serious good for your complexion. When applied topically, it actually penetrates into the skin and helps speed up cell turnover. This reveals newer, healthier skin cells while also stimulating collagen production for a plump, youthful glow.
But here's the catch: Before you start slathering on the retinol, you need to make sure your skin barrier is in tip-top shape.
That protective outer layer is essentially the gatekeeper, controlling what gets in and out of your skin. If your barrier is damaged or compromised, introducing a potent ingredient like retinol can cause all sorts of issues - think dryness, peeling, redness, and irritation. Not a cute thing to be dealing with. This can be what turns people off to retinol, essentially giving them the impression that their skin can't handle it.
So how do you know if your barrier ISN'T currently healthy enough to handle retinol? Look out for signs like:
- Persistent dryness or dehydration
- Sensitivity to skincare products
- Frequent breakouts and/or inflammation
If any of those sound familiar, it's time to focus on barrier repair before you even think about retinol. There are plenty of gentle, nourishing products that can help strengthen and replenish that all-important outer layer. Once your skin is happy and healthy, you can slowly start incorporating retinol. Start with a low concentration and work your way up gradually to give your complexion time to adjust. It can take 2 weeks to 3 months to fully adjust to a retinol product, and six months to see top results.
I generally recommend using the 1, 2, 3 Method. What's that, you ask?
First, quit using ALL other actives, like Vitamin C, exfoliating acids, and enzymes. Use only gentle products like a non-foaming squalane cleanser, a nourishing moisturizer that contains ingredients (like lipids!) that support the skin barrier function, and a mineral SPF for day-time. You MUST protect your skin from the sun, as retinol makes your skin highly susceptible to sun damage.
Once your barrier is healthy and non-reactive, you may incorporate the 1, 2, 3 Method.
On week one, choose one night (perhaps Monday night) to apply a low dose retinol product on dry skin after cleansing. Apply moisturizer after the retinol dries.
On week two, do that on two nights. (Monday & Wednesday nights)
On week three, do that on three nights. (Monday, Wednesday, & Friday)
After this, you should be able to tolerate your low dose retinol every other night. If you're still experiencing intense irritation and purging after 4 weeks, you may want to apply a thin layer of moisturizer BEFORE the retinol, AND of course afterward. I recommend finishing out your retinol product bottle before increasing your dose or reintroducing actives like Vitamin C serum, exfoliating acids, and enzymes. Try the 1, 2, 3 Method when introducing other actives.
Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to retinol! With a LOT of patience and the right barrier-boosting products in your routine, you can unlock all the skin-transforming benefits of retinol without the dreaded side effects.
Need a retinol product recommendation? Try this serum, or my favorite retinol cream.
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